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Pot metal The first step in any of our processes, is
to remove all of the paint, tar, glue and anything that is
plastic or rubber. These items the do
not conduct electricity and will shield the part, thus not
allowing the part to strip evenly.
Stripping is done basically like plating but the DC
current is reversed, and we pull the plating off of the part
and onto lead panels that line the sides of the tank. As soon as the
current is shut off, the old plating drops to the bottom of the
tank. The tank gets cleaned out as often as needed, and
the old chrome, is placed in drums and sent out for proper
disposal according to EPA regulations. Although expensive, this
is worth it for the environment. The second step
is blasting. Pot metal, thin steel, and aluminum are all glass beaded to remove all of the corrosion.
Steel bumpers and thick metals are steel shot
blasted to remove all of the rust from them. The
third step is grinding. All surfaces are skim ground to remove all
of the rust and corrosion, bad metal and alloys from the
part. The pits in potmetal are dug out at this time to ensure that
all of the corrosion is gone. The fourth step is to
seal pot metal with cyanide copper (no acid in this copper process)
this process seals in the pot metal and allows us to use lead and a
special pot metal rod to fill in the pits. The fifth
step is to grind the pot metal smooth (usually to a 400 grit
paper) also working the lead flat and uniform. The
sixth step is to seal the lead and pot metal back up again with
cyanide copper and then it goes into the nickel strike to help aid
the cyanide to seal the pot metal up. The seventh step
is acid copper. Note the key word ACID this will dissolve almost any
thing steel potmetal and aluminum if it is not sealed properly. The
acid copper is a build up process were we can work all of the
imperfections from the piece, and then we high buff the copper
until it looks like a brand new penny (actually a lot
brighter) The eighth step is bright nickel this
protects the piece from the elements, and gives it the
mirror shine but nickel does have a slight yellowish cast to
it. The ninth step is chrome. The part is chromed
and this seals the nickel and turns the part to that bluish silver
cast of chrome, that we all love. Bumpers Bumpers are
stripped, as in all processes, blasted with the steel
shot and ground. The bumpers are put on the bumper grinding machine
which keeps the bumper flat. The ears of the bumpers are worked out
by hand. The bumper is then welded or brazed if needed, and any
dents are taken out of the bumper. Now the bumper is
sealed in nickel strike tank, then is copper covered, and
then is smoothed out and buffed, nickel plated then
chromed. Aluminum
Aluminum is tricky
but we can do it as well. The aluminum is ground smooth and then it
is run through an anti-smut tank and zincated, Nickel struck, then
it goes into the acid copper, smoothed out, buffed, nickeled
and then chromed. Stainless Steel
Stainless Steel is straightened
welded if needed, and lightly ground. Then it can be buffed to
a stock appearance, high buffed to a show quality
shine, and/or chrome plated.
Most Lincoln's and caddy's are
noted for chrome plating the stainless, so if you ever see one where
the chrome and the stainless do not match, it's because the
stainless was probably buffed, not chromed like was done from
the factory.
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